She’s alive! I’m sitting here at my computer, its 4:32 am and I’m hearing that low rumble, you know, the kind that tells you there’s some swell moving on the ocean. It seems like we didn’t even have a summer out here this year. We had so many tiny swells, my friend Robert and I surfed right through June and into July, but what we were riding, fun as it was, was not what people expect from the north shore… winter is obviously a different story.
If you’ve been here during the surf season, or if you live here, you know what I’m talking about. Things change and this place takes on a different mood. People get angry and fired up, and the visitors, oh the visitors, they come in droves looking for that white stallion, the one that’ll make them famous… or kill them. All that posturing is a bit much for a person like me, but I still love the spectacle and the drama.
I’ll never forget a funny but true graffiti tag someone put up on one of those concrete jersey barriers that line Kam hwy as you round the corner heading into Waimea… it read, “CAUTION, EGOS AHEAD.” A truer statement could not be made. Yes it’s the waves that make this place light up, but it’s the egos and the fame seekers that make this place what it is, the meca.
So hold on to your hats folks we’re in for a wild ride. It’s that time again… and I’m ready to make some guns and wage a war of my own. It’ll be a war on fear and the warriors will be armed with sleek and long weapons foiled to perfection, their edges will be sharpened and fins honed. Some will win and some will be pummeled and rolled like a discarded towel on the side of the road. Here’s to the glory of the battle, and may the best man prevail!